Inflatables
How to Protect Halloween Decorations From Rain
Different props fail differently in rain. Here is which ones need covering, and what to do about the parts nobody covers.

Disclosure: we earn a commission from qualifying purchases made through links on this page, at no extra cost to you. It does not change what we recommend — here is how we choose.
The short answer
Inflatables cope with light rain because the fabric is coated and the blower maintains pressure. Animatronics do not, because the motor, board and battery compartment are poorly sealed. Cover electronics-heavy props overnight with a vented cover, keep every cord joint off the ground in a sealed box, and bring fog machines in.
Rain is the slow version of the wind problem. Nothing dramatic happens on the night; the damage shows up weeks later as a corroded contact or a seized motor, which is why people struggle to connect cause and effect and conclude the prop was just cheap.
Which props actually cope
| Prop type | Light rain | Heavy rain | Weak point |
|---|---|---|---|
| Inflatable | Fine | Deflate it | Water pooling in folds; blower intake |
| Animatronic | Marginal | No | Motor housing, control board, batteries |
| Groundbreaker | Marginal | No | Sits in the wettest part of the yard |
| Fog machine | No | No | Heater and pump in a plastic case |
| LED string lights | Fine if outdoor rated | Usually fine | Connectors, not the lights |
| Projector | Only if outdoor rated | No | Lens fogging, vents |
| Rigid skeleton or frame | Fine | Fine | Eye module and its cable |
The pattern: fabric and plastic cope, electronics do not, and the more electronics a prop has the more it wants a roof. That is worth knowing at purchase time as well as in October.
Covering props properly
- Use a vented cover. A fully sealed cover traps condensation against the prop, which is a slower version of the same problem. Vented covers let moisture escape.
- Cover the base, not just the body. The base is where the control electronics usually live, and it is the part people leave exposed.
- Tie it down. Covers blow away, and a cover in a hedge is protecting nothing.
- Uncover at dusk, cover at the end of the night. This is a routine, not a one-time action, and it is the whole reason the covered props outlive the uncovered ones.
If a routine sounds like too much, the alternative is placement: a porch, an eave or a dense canopy changes the exposure for free. The seated porch-format props tend to outlive the yard-format ones for exactly this reason.
The part nobody covers: the connections
You can cover every prop perfectly and still lose the display to a cord joint lying in wet grass. That joint is the most common outdoor electrical fault in a yard haunt — it trips GFCIs mid-evening, it corrodes over a season, and it is the reason a display that is fine at 6pm is dead at 8pm.
- Every cord-to-cord joint goes in a sealed connector box, and the box goes off the ground.
- Every outdoor circuit gets GFCI protection. If the outlet is not already protected, a plug-in adapter adds it cheaply. This is a safety item, not a convenience one.
- Drip loops. Where a cord runs down to a connection, leave a low loop before it so water runs off the loop rather than down into the joint.
- Keep outlets covered. Weatherproof in-use covers exist for exactly this, and they cost very little.
Yard haunt electrical safety covers the parts of this that genuinely need a licensed electrician rather than a workaround.
What to buy

Waterproof Outdoor Cover
Various
The pragmatic answer to a prop that is rated for light moisture and a forecast that is not: cover it overnight, uncover it at dusk.
- Material
- Coated polyester or vinyl
- Fit
- Size to the prop's standing footprint
- Securing
- Drawcord or strap
- Breathability
- Vented covers dry faster
Good
- Extends the life of a light-moisture-rated prop by whole seasons
- Cheaper than replacing one animatronic
- Doubles as the off-season dust cover in the garage
Less good
- Only works if somebody actually puts it on before the rain
- A non-vented cover traps condensation, which is its own problem
- Covers blow away, so they need tying down too
- Protection8.6
- Fit versatility7.4
- Durability8.0
- Ease of use7.6
- Value8.8

Weatherproof Extension Cord Connector Box
Various
Every cord-to-cord joint sitting in wet grass is a fault waiting to trip a breaker. A sealed connector box is the cheapest fix on this entire site.
- Type
- Sealed cord-joint enclosure
- Fits
- Standard cord couplings
- Rating
- Look for an outdoor or weather-resistant listing
- Reusable
- Yes
Good
- Removes the most common outdoor-display electrical fault
- Keeps the joint off the ground as well as out of the rain
- Reusable every season
Less good
- One box per joint, and displays have a lot of joints
- Bulky compared with tape, which is what most people use instead
- Not a substitute for outdoor-rated cord and a GFCI
- Protection9.0
- Fit versatility8.0
- Durability8.4
- Ease of use8.8
- Value9.2

Portable GFCI Adapter
Various
If the outdoor outlet you are using is not already GFCI protected, a plug-in adapter is the cheapest way to fix that, and it is not optional on a wet lawn.
- Type
- Plug-in ground-fault circuit interrupter
- Use
- Any unprotected outdoor outlet
- Test
- Press test and reset before every season
- Note
- Not a replacement for correct wiring
Good
- Adds ground-fault protection without an electrician
- Small, cheap and reusable
- Testable, so you can confirm it works
Less good
- A nuisance trip mid-evening kills the whole display at once
- Does not fix undersized or damaged cord
- Needs its own weather protection at the outlet
- Safety value9.6
- Weather rating7.0
- Ease of use9.4
- Reliability8.0
- Value9.4

Vented Outdoor Housing Box for a Fog Machine
Various
A fog machine is a heater full of liquid and it does not belong in the rain. A vented outdoor box lets you place it where the fog needs to be without exposing it.
- Type
- Outdoor storage or deck box
- Requirement
- Must be vented, because heat has to escape
- Placement
- Nozzle exits through a cut or an open face
- Off-season
- Doubles as storage
Good
- Lets you place the machine where the fog is needed rather than where shelter is
- Keeps the electronics dry through an unexpected shower
- Useful the rest of the year as outdoor storage
Less good
- Must be vented or you will cook the machine
- Adds bulk to a display that is trying to look like a graveyard
- Not a substitute for bringing the machine in at the end of the night
- Protection8.4
- Fit versatility7.8
- Durability8.2
- Ease of use8.0
- Value8.0
If something does get soaked
- Cut the power first. Unplug it or pull the batteries. Wet plus powered is where the permanent damage happens.
- Open access panels and battery compartments. Get air moving through the inside, not just across the outside.
- Dry slowly and warm, not hot. A heat gun melts foam and adhesives. Days, not hours.
- Test before storing. Finding a dead prop next September is worse than finding it now, when you can still act on it.
And the storage matters as much as the drying — anything packed damp spends ten months in the dark growing something. How to store inflatables and animatronics covers that side.
Frequently asked questions
Can you leave Halloween decorations out in the rain?
Inflatables and rigid frames generally yes in light rain. Animatronics, fog machines and projectors, no — their electronics are poorly sealed and the damage usually shows up weeks later rather than on the night.
How do you waterproof Halloween decorations?
You mostly do not waterproof them, you shelter them. A vented cover overnight, placement under an eave or porch, sealed boxes on every cord joint, and GFCI protection on the circuit. Covering the base matters as much as covering the body.
Should I use a tarp to cover Halloween props?
A vented cover is better. A sealed tarp traps condensation against the prop, which produces the same corrosion more slowly. If a tarp is what you have, leave the bottom open so air can move.
What happens to a fog machine in the rain?
It is a heating element and a pump in a plastic housing, so rain is the fastest way to kill one. Either put it in a vented outdoor box or bring it in at the end of each night.
About the author
Mike M.
Mike M. is the hands-on owner behind Iron Mako Media, which publishes Haunt & Hedge. The site covers the gear that builds a yard haunt, for the person who already decorates and adds one bigger piece a year.
We do not run a test lab and we do not claim to have physically tested products we have not. Read how we choose picks.